When is a Diamond ring not an ordinary ring? When it is a handbuilt twelve prong setting.
The first step is selection of materials. A 2 ct. cushion-cut Diamond is carefully chosen from many candidates. This one almost perfectly square and faces up larger in relation to it's carat weight. Other considerations is an even girdle thick enough to be sturdy. The color is G which is white and near colorless, a more expensive color ( D-F) is not very noticeable as any whiter when set and uses up part of the budget at the expense of size. A clarity of SI2 gets us a larger size as well and the inclusions are light and whispy and noticable only with magnification.
Gold materials are 14k yellow 15 gauge wire, 14 guage 1/2 round wire and 6x 1.5 mm flat wire.
Step two is to construct the setting. This is done by hand and by eye. Here I layout the basic form using the 15 gauge wire.
Step three is the addition of eight more prongs.
Step four, a inner structure is added to brace the prongs.
Step five, the band has been created with the 6x1.5 mm flat wire
Step six, and a flat area has been made to mount the setting on. Note the joint in the band is located to the rear.
Step seven, the setting is solder to the band and the 1/2 round cut into bars and soldered to each side.
Step eight, the sides of the band are tappered, the 1/2 bars are made flush in this process. The band under the settting is shaped so the prongs continue to the bottom. This is important as the band continues uninterrupted like a bridge below the setting. The 1/2 round bars also brace the setting to the band on either side. The inside has been radiused for the comfort of the wearer.
Step nine, through many shapes and grades of small pumice wheels the entire ring has been mirror polished.
Step ten, the prongs are tweaked so that the diamond overlaps the prongs evenly all the way around.
Step eleven, the bearing which is what the diamond actually sits on, has been cut into the prongs. Again this is done by hand and by eye under magnification.
Step twelve, the diamond sits perfectly within the prongs and the height and shape adjusted to my satisfaction.
Step thirteen, the prongs are carefully pushed slightly over the top of the diamond.
Step fourteen, the final shaping and polish of the prongs.
